Zion to Moab (Mother of All Backcountries!)

Arising early I enjoyed the best time of day for riding through the mountains. There is no traffic, besides the big horn sheep, the sun hits the mountain tops and produces an ambient glow that sooths the harsh morning cold and hard pavement. Every engaging corner brings a new view of unique rock formations, post card views, streams, waterfalls, and wildlife...

I follow 89 N through Dixie NF and turn off to follow the signs, attractions and traffic buzzing around Bryce Canyon. Torn between getting some miles logged and enjoying the sights I pay the meager $10 to do the ride out to the end of Bryce Canyon. I stop at the various view points for some great views, snacks and some pictures with the many other Harley riders I encounter.


I throttle on down the canyon for more views and many more twisties...if there is nothing but winding roads I can ride for days and love every minute, but those high plain straights just about put me to sleep. Up and down canyons reveals the unique geological event that produced the majority of the precarious rock formations, then climbing high in the hills for a view of it all. Through the Capitol Reef NP where the rain has washed the red clay into the rivers and temporary waterfalls to produce a scene from out of Willy wonkas chocolate factory...fortunately I have an ample supply to stave the cravings.

I find a convenient place to stop, called "The Flute Shop", to suit up for the coming rain squalls. They stock all kinds of native American goods...flint knifes, axes, pipes, flutes....I've always wanted a good flute and the price and timing couldn't have been better.

I finally get to hwy 70 by evening, and with about an hour of sunlight left I could either keep pushing on to Colorado, or stop and enjoy some time in Moab...that really isn't much of choice, since Moab is the hub for all things adventurous...I'm welcomed by a heavy rain and thunderstorm but the hopes of a quiet and dry spot to camp keep me going. I do a short tour around the cozy mountain town...cafes, upscale restaurants, art shops, tourist bars and adventure guide shops seem to be on every block. I sus out a camp spot along the Colorado river in a tight sandstone canyon then head back to town for a spot of food. I find a great cafe, called "The Peace Tree" where I finally get some fresh veggie juice and a big salad. I had to try this phenomenon of the 4% or less beer, and a brew pub that makes their own seemed the best option. I'm not the only adventure rider with this in mind and I share some stories with a guy from Austin, TX and a couple from NY. The couple are journalists and photographers doing a piece on the the culture and bonds between people on two wheels. They interview us and get some pictures of me with my bike...so if their story gets picked up I could be in their NYTimes article!

Back to Moonbow campsite I quickly set up my camp and climb the canyon walls to serenade the nightlife with my new flute. The soothing sounds quickly send me into dream land and I feel like the character know as "Kokopelli" (the traveling flute player that brings agriculture and fertility blessings).


Comments